Ending Waste: EU's Step to Ban Textile & Footwear Destruction in Fashion Industry

In December 2023, the European Union (EU) proposed new rules targeting industries such as fashion, which is considered one of the world’s biggest polluters. These rules are part of a broader effort to make products more environmentally friendly and support the transition to a circular economy.

The Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR) entered into force in July 2024, replacing the previous Ecodesign Directive. It expands the criteria for designing sustainable products, aiming to make eco-friendly products the default in the EU market. Requirements include durability, recyclability, and the introduction of a digital product passport. Companies are also expected to take greater responsibility for minimising their carbon and environmental footprint.

Since January 2025, EU Member States have been required to ensure separate collection of textile waste under the Waste Framework Directive. In practice, this means fashion brands and retailers are increasingly being held responsible for the end-of-life of their products, with Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes being rolled out across the bloc. Producers will need to cover the costs of collecting, sorting, and recycling discarded textiles, though details differ from country to country.

The ESPR also introduces a ban on the destruction of unsold textiles and footwear. While the ban is not yet in force, it is set to apply to large companies from mid-2026, with medium-sized enterprises following later (around 2030). Small businesses are exempt. In the meantime, larger companies are already required to report on unsold consumer products and disclose the reasons for disposal.

The European Environment Agency (EEA) highlighted the scale of the challenge:

  • 4–9% of textiles sold in Europe are destroyed annually — between 264,000 and 594,000 tonnes.

  • Online clothing purchases have a 20% return rate, with roughly one-third of returned items destroyed.

  • Unsold textiles account for around 21% of stock, with one-fifth of that destroyed.

  • The destruction of unsold and returned textiles remains widespread and environmentally harmful.

  • The EU’s recent measures underline the urgency of finding alternatives for unsold and returned products.

With new collection systems already in place and bans on destruction soon to follow, the coming years will show whether the textiles industry can successfully curb waste and embrace a more circular future.